Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these stories and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
